April 1, 2015
After leaving Dubai, the world of high rises and world
record features, our March 26 arrival in Muscat, capital of the Sultanate of
Oman, was like a breath of fresh air. The coast is dramatically beautiful in
its stark, rocky mountains that encircle the city and its port. The buildings
are low, two and three stories and even the new construction is true to the
traditional architecture. No high-rises – maximum height is 7 stories – by
design. The current sultan prefers expansion out instead of up and, to
encourage that vision, every Omani who reaches the age of 23 (men and women
both) is given a parcel of land in the location of his/her choice on which to
build a home or to sell. Once again, the Portuguese were among the first
“conquerors” from the west as this was an important port for the spice trade.
Although they were driven out after about a century of occupation, their 14th-century
forts remain.
View of Muscat coast. Note Portuguese fort.
View of Muscat from the ship
Thanks to production and export of over 900,000 barrels of
crude oil per day, the cities and country-side are clean and the people
seemingly comfortable. Unlike go-go
Dubai, Oman is a study in conservatism. Not the religious conservatism of Saudi
Arabia, but the economic conservatism that respects the country’s past,
benefits its people, and keeps the country out of world conflicts. Also of
interest is that Oman offers free education, health care and other benefits to
its citizens regardless of gender. There are even two women who serve as
ministers in the government.
Due to insufficient ground water, the country uses mostly desalinated
water. However some ground water continues to help irrigate the date palms
which grow near an oasis we visited in the hills outside of Muscat. We also visited the Sultan Qaboos Grand
Mosque, completed in 2001.
Our tour guide in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Our next stop in Oman was Salalah on March 28. This was the
center of the world’s frankincense trade and is thought to be the origin of one
of the wise men who visited Bethlehem. It is also thought to be where the Queen
of Sheba obtained frankincense for King Solomon. We visited an archaeological
site that may have been her palace, although that idea has been refuted by the
Italian archaeologists who are restoring the site. They say her palace was in
Yemen, a 2-hour drive away. As our bus traveled the highway around Salalah, we
saw a herd of camels along the road. Our guide noted that the camel herder was
driving in a Toyota Land Cruiser across the way. My, how times have changed!
Camels along the road near Salalah
We especially enjoyed our visit to the Salalah Heritage
Museum where we saw frankincense trees among other interesting exhibits.
Apparently frankincense has a multitude of uses including ridding your home of
pests, medicinal benefits from dissolving and drinking, or from mixing with
oils for application to the skin.
With our guide in front of a frankincense tree at the museum
in Salalah
The beaches in Salalah are both magnificent and empty as
Muslims are not water enthusiasts. We saw evidence of preparation for beach-front
hotel construction in the city which will change both the character of the city
as well as the activity on the beaches by visitors from Europe. We had lunch at
a Crowne Plaza resort and got a peek at the future of the region.
Oman reminded us of the smart kid who knows how to stay out
of trouble and live successfully. The country is not part of OPEC, opted not to
join the Emerates as part of the United Arab Emerates, and by decree stays out
of the internal affairs of other nations. All of this is attributed to Sultan
Qaboos who took power in 1970 and has converted his country from a backward
land to the modern, wealthy country we visited. He is much beloved by the
people and we saw signs of celebration everywhere as he had just returned home
after an 8-month hospitalization in Germany. Although he is presumably fully
recovered, he is 75. Although he has married twice, he has no children, so his
presumed heir would be one of his nephews as chosen by the members of the royal
family. One hopes that this little gem of a country will continue to be led by
one as apparently wise as Sultan Qaboos.
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