Sunday, April 26, 2015

A magical journey through Greece


April 26, 2015
We arrived at Piraeus, Greece on Friday, April 10 – the Greek Orthodox Good Friday. Having been to Athens twice before we opted for a three-day, two night overland tour to Meteora, Delphi and Olympia.
Our first stop – after a 4-hour bus ride through the amazing Greek countryside – was Kalambaka at the base of the Meteora Monasteries. Picture giant rocks reaching high into the sky over the Thessalian plain, and on top of several are monasteries that date back to the 11th century and sit atop the rocks like caps on one’s head.

There were once twenty-one monasteries and nunneries, but today there are only six, with only five still occupied – three with monks and two with nuns. Over the years the nuns and monks who lived in the monasteries to engage in reflection and prayer have been inundated with visitors so many have abandoned their homes for less popular venues. The roads built to the sites have enabled people to access the churches (each monastery is built with a church at its core and several small chapels) via motorized vehicles instead of hiking up or being pulled up in a basket. We saw campsites at the bases and climbers scaling some of the rocks.

Even more special was the juxtaposition of spring flowers and budding trees against a background of snow-capped peaks. Spectacular!

We visited two sites, one we could drive fairly close to and one that required a hike up 210 steps in a skirt! (Women are required to wear skirts, no trousers.) The first had a lovely domed church, but the paintings were recent. The second – the one that required the hike – had ancient frescos on the walls that made the trek worthwhile. Because the only light is from candles, the frescos are in excellent condition.

That evening we stayed in Kalambaka. While many in our group joined our guide to participate in the Good Friday procession, we and our back-of-the bus buddies, Craig and Sumi Gerhart from Philly, found a local restaurant where we ate and drank like kings all for a total of 25 Euros per couple. We love Greece!

The next day, back on the bus for the trip to Delphi. Our guide pronounced it Delphee, but a local merchant told us that is because that’s the way it’s spelled in Greek, but Delphi is also correct. After visiting the Delphi Museum and site we drove through a spectacular little town at the base of the ski slopes – which are still open due to a colder than normal spring – and on to a delightful place where we had lunch. We all left feeling way too full.

Then back to Delphi where we checked into our hotel. Our room had a spectacular view of the mountains and the Ionian Sea below. The town is so hilly that a young woman at the hotel referred to it as a “gymnasium.” We got our workout wandering around the town. Much later, when we were finally ready for dinner, several of the places we visited were too busy getting ready for the midnight diners after the Easter eve mass. But we did find one place and had a late night pizza. At midnight we looked out our balcony and saw the fireworks celebrating the Easter miracle. The next morning we saw smoke everywhere as people were barbequing lambs.

Fireworks celebrating Easter in Delphi

Our final stop before re-joining the ship in Katakolon (emphasis on the second syllable) was Olympia. Unfortunately, the site was closed for Easter Sunday, but we were hosted at a giant Easter celebration, complete with Greek dancing and lots of wonderful food. For Easter the Greeks dye boiled eggs solid red. Two people hit the eggs together. The one who’s egg cracks might have bad luck. My egg cracked but John’s didn’t so as a family we balance out.


We got to Katakolon early enough to walk around town. It’s a fun little port city with lots of merchants who were open on Easter Sunday. As we returned to the ship we were greeted by two dogs – like a welcoming committee. They made themselves at home on the mat at the base of the gangway and greeted everyone who walked by. Nice way to end our trip to Greece.

 Now on to Italy (Messinna, Naples and Civitavechia/Rome), then Cartegena, Malaga, and Cadiz, Spain, and finally Ponta Delgada where we had two days instead of the scheduled one.   

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