Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Colombo, Cochin and St. Patrick


March 18, 2015
Since the last post we have visited Colombo, Sri Lanka, Cochin (Kochi), India and celebrated St. Patrick’s Day with a ship full of pseudo-Irish and St. Patrick himself, AKA Papa Ku.

March 15: Colombo, Sri Lanka
We had a private tour with guide and driver, neither of whom seemed to know how to get around very well. On our way to a tea plantation we had to stop at least four times to ask for directions. No GPS nor maps in evidence. But it was a nice day anyway. The tea plantation was interesting – involving a rather treacherous ride up a narrow mountain road. We were told by our guide that this was “low land” tea and not considered as high quality as the tea grown in the higher elevations away from the city. But the smells were wonderful and the production process fascinating. After a brief tour of the city and a delicious lunch at the Ministry of Crab (Stay Calm and Crab On), we visited a craft shop where we purchased some high country tea, a wood carved fisherman, and a post card for Uncle Lingan. Of interest was a major beach-front development project that is now in hiatus. Seems the project was begun by Chinese investors during the previous Sri Lankan administration which was considered corrupt. So the current administration has called a halt while the various financing arrangements are scrutinized.  
Tea Plantation

At the Ministry of Crab

March 17: Cochin, India
Cochin is in Kerala – the southernmost state in India. It was one of the earliest settlements because of its abundance of spices. First the Portuguese came and conquered, stayed a few hundred years before being deposed by the Dutch and finally the British. We visited the oldest and second oldest European-built churches in India – both built by the Portuguese. We also visited the Synagogue, built in the 1500s and whose floor is paved with hand-painted tiles from Canton, China. The state is 40% Christian, 30% Hindu, and 30% Muslim. There are exactly seven Jewish people left and when they die the entire Jewish population will be gone. Also interesting are the Chinese-style fishing nets still in use. The picture is a better description than I could make.
Chinese-style fishing nets in Cochin

Unlike most of India, Cochin seems to have a lower level of poverty. Our tour guide noted that family planning is popular here, the level of education high, and thus no families have to live on the street. The architecture is lovely and well maintained. The buildings in the old Fort Cochin area are being preserved, some converted into boutique hotels. Fresh fish is abundant and the fish market was a fun visit. 
Shopping for fish in Cochin.

Overall, it is a lovely city. While there we had an interesting conversation with an American woman from Seattle who travels to India and other Asian countries every year by herself.

India has the most onerous entry requirements of any country we have visited. In addition to having had to go through the expense and time-consuming process of obtaining a visa, we also had to complete numerous forms while on board and then have both a photocopy of our passport and an entrance card stamped by an official before we could get off the ship. Consequently all the tours left an hour late. Since we have booked a private tour by a non-Holland America provider for Mumbai, we are a bit concerned about missing our contact there on the 19th.

St. Patrick’s Day: Although in India, green was the color of the day ship-wide and a party atmosphere prevailed. One passenger – a frequent sailor from Australia nicknamed Papa Ku – was authentically attired as St. Patrick, complete with staff and snake! It added a further note of fun to the evening.     




Now we are on our way to Mumbai. The GI problem continues to worsen, mainly due (according to the captain) to passengers who either ignore their quarantines or fail to report symptoms. If it continues we may have to disembark and wait for the entire ship to be decontaminated. This could result in some missed stops in the itinerary. John has totally recovered from his bout and I have been spared. But we are both still plagued with nagging coughs, residual from our pneumonia and exacerbated by mild colds. 

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